PUSAN, MY LOVE

I returned to Pusan on Friday evening at about 6:30. I took a taxi to the hotel (the driver could actually find it) and entered it. It was a big hotel that must have been nice and the place to be 30 years ago. Not anymore. It was seedy and gave the feeling of dirty although it wasn't. I have no idea how they're in business. Their location is good, but that's it. The people at the desk had poor English but were as helpful as they could be with that limitation. The name of the hotel (in case you're ever in Pusan and want to avoid it) is the Kutje Hotel. Kutje means "international". I don't think people from all over the world are flocking to stay there.

My plan for Friday night was to find a people area and walk around a bit. Then I would go to a bar and have a few bloody mary's, a drink I haven't had since I left the States. After that, dinner and more walking. The people at the desk recommended I go to the city center. That sounded good to me. I had my choice of taxi or subway so naturally I chose the subway. Hell, I was in the big city. Pusan is a city of 1 million people and it's the main port city in Korea. (Gwangyang is the number 2 port city). It has a national university, a subway, American and American style restaurants, and all the things that made me feel like a hick coming to the big town. It's one of the nice things about living in a small place. You do appreciate the city and what it has to offer.

I got a map of the city, consulted the subway map, bought a ticket from the machine, and off I was. I exited at the Seomyeon station in the heart of the city. The underground was connected to an underground mall and entrances to a department store and a nice hotel unlike the one I was in. The thing I saw in the subway that I liked was this:

I thought it quite clever to have designated "meeting places" in the subway station.

I was deciding whether to exit the station to the right or to the left. I saw a sign saying that if I went to the right, I'd go to a bookstore that I thought someone had mentioned as having English books. You can check them out at www.ykbooks.com. I'm a sucker for a bookstore so I headed out that way. I went up the stairs and outside and was met with the usual carts of Korean delicacies.


The streets are filled with these carts and the smells are terrific if you like Korean food things. As for me, they make me nauseous. So I plugged my nose and headed to find the bookstore. I found it and with finding it, my plans for the evening disappeared. The downstairs had an English section and I found a paperback by one of my favorite authors which I grabbed. I then decided I would get a book to try and teach myself Korean. I asked for help and the clerk had a clear recommendation for the #1 book for my purposes. It's just the first in a series of six and he said it should take me about a month. I laughed. I think I'm supposed to come out of it with a vocabulary of 1200 words. That would be great. It comes with a CD which is important because what I read and say doesn't sound like anything to a Korean.

The English section also contained a bunch of English textbooks to teach people English with. I got caught up in checking them out, looking for ideas on how to better my teaching or make it more interesting. I bought a few books with money out of my own pocket to use with my students. I would have got more, but the store closed. I even bought a picture bingo game. I bought "The Very Hungry Caterpillar" to read to the kindergarten class and maybe the slow learners that are one class above. It's a great storybook that both my kids loved. I bought a book of bad jokes that is used to teach with. I bought a book that presents an issue and gives different opinions to it. You then use that as a basis of discussion with the students.

The store closed and I started walking around looking for a place to eat. The drinking idea was gone due to hunger. I was accosted by two young ladies. They sold me a bag of cookies. They assured me they were very delicious. I couldn't resist buying them but I have no idea what the cause I paid into was. And I have no idea if the cookies were delicious because I had no desire to try them. But I like to help out young ladies. (They were about 15 I'd guess).

I was craving some American food. I didn't want fast food but a sit down place where I could have a good meal and a drink. I thought I'd stumble across one. I walked the streets of Pusan as a man on a mission. I walked long and I walked hard. I couldn't find anything. Here is one of the places I turned down:


I finally came to an area that was packed with young people, bright lights, and restaurants. It was a tough decision but a man's got to go where a man's got to go and so I went.


If the place above looks it familiar, it should. Yes, I went to the Outback. That's the Outback Special which was quite expensive. It was about $22 which is quite a bit more than back in the States, but it was worth it. The steak is Australian beef. I thought it was delicious. The baked potato was rolled in salt which is good for my health. The bread tasted like Outback bread. The salad had corn in it which I don't like in my salad, but I survived. I had a drink before dinner but not a bloody mary. I asked for vodka and tomato juice but the waitress told me that tomatoes weren't in season. Of course there were plenty of fresh tomatoes in my salad and tomato juice comes in a can or bottle. But I had lemonade and vodka and it was quite good. I loved my dinner. For dessert I went to Baskin-Robbins for ice cream. I was full and happy.

I went back to my hotel and planned my sightseeing for the next day and then did the TV remote flipping routine. On the entrance card to Korea you sign that one of the things you're not bringing into the country is pornographic materials. I wonder if the government has noticed that there is a porn channel on TV. I noticed it as I was flipping. I was going to call the President of Korea and tell him of this outrage but it was late and I didn't want to wake him.

The next morning it was drizzling and overcast but I was not to be deterred. I was hungry and bought something at the bakery as I was walking to the subway station. I took one bite and spit it out. I don't know what was in it, but I was just expecting a plain roll. So I just went back to the city center and went to McDonald's for a Big Mac Brunch Meal. After that I bought a couple more Dunkin Donuts and went into a coffee shop and relaxed with my coffee and donuts. I could have gone to a Starbucks but I decided to try a different place. I then decided that perhaps I should purchase an umbrella because of the weather. I bought a Tote's collapsible umbrella. After all, it would have to be small to keep it in my apartment. (And having bought it, I didn't need to use it all day).

I headed off to the subway to go to my first destination, the Beomeo Temple. After the subway I had the pleasure of taking a city bus to get there. The subway charges based on how far you are going. One way ranges from 90 cents to $1.30 (or something like that). The bus ride was 90 cents. The Beomeo Temple was built by a great teacher of Buddhism, Uisang, during the Silla Kingdom Period in 678. It is situated at the eastern tip of Mt. Geumjeong. The Temple refers to an area of 3 levels with different buildings. The levels represent the different levels of spirituality you can aspire to with the highest level containing the place where you can do your major prayers to Buddha.

One of the people who either works or volunteers there approached me to ask if I had any questions after I bought my ticket in. (The ticket was about $1). Her English was pretty decent and I asked a few questions. She was quite nice. Here are the four pillars that mark the entrance:


These four pillars mean something. You stand to the side of them and depending on how many you see says how evolved you are within your level of Buddhism. Or something like that. I walked around and it was beautiful and peaceful. I wish the weather was nicer as I would have liked to just sit a while and contemplate life. As it was I was trudging through the mud but it was worth it. Here are some pictures of the temple and area:





Here's a picture of a Buddha who came from Alabama with a banjo on his knee:


Here's a picture of someone praying in the main temple area. I saw a few people praying and didn't think it proper to take a picture in there so I did from outside the door.


The praying is interesting. Some people first put money in a donation box. They then get a mat for their knees and put it down. The way they pray is to stand, bow, go to your knees, bow from your knees, stand up, and repeat. I saw one woman do that from the time I went in to the time I left that room. It must have been at least 50 repetitions of that. I have no idea how many she did. The purpose of the donation is to endear yourself to Buddha. The intensity of the prayer is left up to the individual. Some do hundreds of these bowing routines while others may do only 10 or so. It depends what you're praying for. You might pray for family, friends, health, wealth, or for inner peace which I think is the highest level of prayer. (I learned this from the lady I spoke with a little later).

This is an active temple with monks on-site. And because even Buddhists need to meet the call of nature, you can find these within the grounds:


When I got back down I asked the lady about the prayers and she explained things to me. She invited me inside their trailer and offered me a coffee which was very kind of her. We spoke for awhile and she told me some things and history of Buddhism. She asked me where I was from and why I came to Korea. She said that maybe I came to Korea to become a Buddhist. Who knows? Can one be an Atheist-Jewish-Buddhist? I enjoyed my visit with her and headed to get a bus back down the mountain. As I walked down I noticed the turtles. I have no idea what they mean except they were a great photo opportunity.


I headed back to the bus for the next part of my tour. I should have had an inkling of what was in store for me. (This one is for you Scott).


There was a dining opportunity before I got on the bus. But there are times when "live food" just doesn't capture my appetite. (Look in the center of the store window).


My next visit was to be to Mt. Geumjeong to see the Stone Fortress. The naming of Mt. Geumjeong is an old story, in which gold fishermen came from the heavens riding on clouds to swim in the Geumjeong creek. The mountain surrounds the city like a folding screen and symbolizes Pusan's history, culture and spirit. After I got off the subway in that area prepared to take another bus to get there, I noticed that it was just a short walk according to the directions sign I saw, so I decided to walk. It wasn't as short as I would have liked, and it was uphill. My legs were tired from the walking I'd done so far but I made it to the park where I had 2 ways to get up the mountain. One was to walk it, the other was to take the cable car. Guess which one I took.


Yes, you guessed it. I headed to the Ropeway Station (which I assume is a direct English translation of the Korean) unless it's always just been called that and I made up the name "Cable Car". Here are some of my fellow Ropeway riders:


The ride was quite nice and though the visibility wasn't the best, you could get a good view of the city.


Once we got to the top I followed the signs to the South Gate. It wasn't close and it was uphill. I haven't hiked this much in centuries, if ever. My legs were killing me and my knees ached like never before. In fact my right knee still hurts. But I must admit it was nice to be outside by myself just hiking. I saw some people up there, either individuals or groups. Here is my first view of the South Gate:


Once I entered the gate I came across this carving which I have no idea of what it is.


Once inside there was still plenty of walking ahead of me. I thought there was a fortress to see (maybe there is) or a great wall (which there is). I walked and walked and walked some more.



I made it as far as I could go. I was near the top of the mountain and I saw what may be the wall but I'll never know. Here's a picture of some men resting at the spot:


Here is what may be the wall. It's an old wall and might not be as high as it once was. It goes on for 17 km. and is believed to first have been built over 2000 years ago. The fortress is the largest in the country.


There were some interesting rock formations to view. I wish it wasn't so misty but it was quite beautiful.


And here I am surveying the area I had just conquered. As you can tell from the look on my face, hiking is serious business.


I then began my trek down the part of the mountain I had hiked to the ropeway. I thought I should stop for a drink of water on the way so I took advantage of the water provided there.


When I reached here, there was a group having scoops of water. The man at the taps asked me if I wanted a scoop and I said yes so he filled one for me. I spoke with an older man in that group. His English was quite good and he asked me where I was from and if I was enjoying myself. I told him I came from Gwangyang but my accent is so bad that no one knows what I'm saying. In fact, I've realized I've been pronouncing it wrong this whole time. Luckily I know it's the number 2 port city so people know what I'm talking about and I now know how to pronounce the name of this place I live. The man told me that his group climbs the mountain and hikes every Saturday. It was a pleasure to speak with him.

We parted ways and I continued on. When I got back to the South Gate I took another picture of it.


There were a couple of men there and they made conversation with me. I love the friendliness of the natives. They offered to take my picture at the gate.


I went outside the gate and met more people who spoke to me and inquired as to my situation. They were a group that also frequently climbs and hikes the mountain. I walked with them for a bit. They asked me how I got up the mountain and I told them I took the cable car. I think it was the funniest thing they'd ever heard. They laughed and then they would talk in Korean for a bit and I'd hear the words "cable car" and laughter. I didn't mind. I was happy to be able to provide laughter for them. We parted ways and I continued on.

It was then that I had a revelation. I've traveled quite a bit in my life to many different places. I've been quite fortunate in that. Many times I've gone to new places by myself for work and taken advantage of it to see new things. At those times I've always thought that I wished my family was with me to share the experience with. And that is true. But there is another level that I discovered. By being alone I could truly appreciate the brief encounters with strangers. I enjoyed and appreciated people stopping to make conversation with me, a stranger to them and making me feel welcome in their country. It's times like these that I feel good about being here. It is an adventure and a good experience. I love the kindness of strangers and it happens a lot here. My solitary Buddhist Temple and mountain hike were the things I came here for. I do enjoy my company. I don't want to be alone forever but there is peace and joy to be found by yourself too.

I went back down the ropeway. My knees were beyond hurting. I could barely walk. I made my way to the Starbucks near the University to meet Gord (who I met in Japan) for dinner. I took a taxi. I got in and showed the driver the map and pointed to the University where it was printed in Korean. The print is small and he couldn't read it. He then borrowed my glasses but that didn't help him. It seems that "University" is not a universal word. He kept looking out the window (we hadn't left yet) looking for someone to read the map for him. Finally a young man came along who looked at the map. He asked me in English if I was going to the University. I said yes and he told the driver. Another kind stranger and there are more to come.

I met Gord and we chatted and shared experiences. We went to dinner at an Italian restaurant which was okay. I still only wanted American food so Italian will do. I stumbled across a gelato place and we went there for dessert. It didn't say gelato in the window, just fruit ice cream. I made a good guess as to what it was. It was pretty good. Gord had sweet potato flavor. Weird. But sweet potato is very popular here in the strangest places. Ice cream and as a pizza topping to name two of them.

While talking with Gord, it was then that I gave some thought as to what I wanted to teach and where I would be if I knew before what I know now. Of course when you do something like this foreign adventure you can't know in advance what you'll get. If I had to do it over, I'd go to a city like Pusan and teach high school or adults. Gord said he had some contacts and asked me if I wanted him to inquire into getting me a job. I told him no. I'm not ready to give up on Kelly or Gwangyang as I wrote yesterday. I think he just wanted someone he'd made friends with to be closer. He's only been here 3 weeks.

We parted ways and I went to take the subway back to the hotel. I was consulting my subway map to see which track to get on when I was approached by a young woman who wanted to make sure I knew where I was going. I told her I was just trying to see which track to get on and she asked me my destination stop. I said something and she asked me if I said what it sounded like to her. It wasn't. But I said it was and I would just consult my map again. She said I should go to the track to my left and I said thank you and she left. It was very nice of her to approach me. I then checked my map and saw that I needed to go to the right, which I did. I'm standing on the platform waiting for the train when a different young woman approaches me and says she saw the 1st woman give me directions, and it was to the other platform and she was worried I'd get lost. I explained to her that my accent is terrible and therefore I was pointed in the wrong direction by the other woman. I showed her the subway map and where I was going to assure her I was in the right place.

Some strangers are just too kind. Once again, it's moments like these that I love. It makes me appreciate the small kindnesses I'm shown and I'm not kidding when I say that it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy towards Koreans. I've had a few experiences (such as the person who carried one of my suitcases to the bus station in Seoul) where I'm just so impressed with the thoughtfulness of others. As Blanche DuBois said, "Whoever you are--I have always depended on the kindness of strangers". Perhaps we all do without realizing it.

On the subway ride back to the hotel I also came to another realization. Koreans are cell phone crazy. They're constantly checking their cell phones to see if anyone called in the last 2 minutes. It doesn't matter that their phone has been in their pocket or in their hand and it hasn't rang. They still check them. Weird.

On Sunday I got up and took a taxi to the bus station to head back to Gwangyang. The taxi driver dropped me outside somewhere and I just started to walk towards the terminal. Apparently I walked through a gate I wasn't supposed to and I was stopped by a guard. Of course we couldn't converse but through gestures he asked me to leave my suitcase with him and go inside and buy my ticket, and then come back and get my suitcase. It's amazing how you can communicate without language sometimes. Of course there are sometimes misinterpretations. (To be explained in a minute). I got my ticket and retrieved my suitcase. I waited for the bus to leave which it did at 11AM so I thought I'd be back here at around 1:15. I thought like my voyage to Pusan, it was a direct bus. I got back to Gwangyang at 6PM. Two and a quarter hours to Pusan, seven hours back.

What happened was that we got to Suncheon which is another city less than half an hour from here. I approached the driver and said, "Gwangyang"? He spoke to me in Korean and did something with his hands. I replied in English and with my hands. I thought he was gesturing that it was the next stop. It wasn't. A couple of hours later we reach the end of the line which is some little town who knows where. The driver than approaches me and starts talking Korean loud and fast. I can tell it's the end of the road and I'm angry. I was supposed to get off in Suncheon and get a different bus to Gwangyang. Why didn't he make me get off the bus in Suncheon? He saw me go back to my seat. I was hot. Not all Koreans are so helpful. Just like anywhere, some are jerks and this bus driver gets my vote for jerk of the month. I can understand me making a mistake and not knowing what the hell I'm supposed to do, but I can't understand him letting me sit down in Suncheon when I had asked him about Gwangyang. And I was pronouncing it properly by now.

I got the bus from nowhere town to Suncheon and then got a bus to Gwangyang. By the time I got here, both my knees and my butt were killing me. I suppose that my time away couldn't have all gone perfectly. I had a fabulous time. It was a time of new friends, inner peace, new discoveries, and hope for better days ahead.

Today I returned to school with new hope. I had "The Very Hungry Caterpillar" for the kindergarten kids. Most of them didn't listen. My new hope for that class died. I left during the class and told Kelly that I wasn't qualified to teach kindergarten. I had no control and it was a waste of my time. I told her if she wanted someone to just sit in the room with them, I could do that. But I was through trying to teach them. She said that she didn't know what to do and that she would have to think about it. I know it's not ideal, and I wish I could do it, but without the Korean language they won't listen to me. The only way it could work is to throw any Korean adult in the room with me. The kids would be quiet and I could maybe teach them something. Who knows what will happen, but I won't be banging my head against the wall.

I trotted out the book for my next class which are kids who are not too bright in English. They enjoyed the story and that made me glad I got the book. I'm having trouble getting them to not just repeat what I say. Today I tried to teach them what "on, under, and in" mean. I'd say, "Is the pencil in the book, on the book, or under the book"? The class says, "Is the pencil in the book, on the book, or under the book". It took me about 20 minutes to get them to stop repeating me and try to grasp that I'm asking them a question. They may have gotten that but the question of on, under, or in seemed to be rather difficult for them. But they try so therefore I'll try. They're far from perfect but I can reign them in when I need to unlike the kindergarten kids.

I used the book of jokes with my adult student tonight giving her a couple of them. She didn't get them. I'm not surprised. It must be quite difficult to grasp humor in a different language. I showed her the other book of discussion points and got little reaction. I think she's worried that I'll make her talk. Sometimes it's like pulling teeth. Her listening skills must be getting good because I talk a lot but she's not too keen on talking. But she can talk when I "force" her too.

Tomorrow I'm going with Kelly to the Immigration office to get my alien registration application done. She insists the office to do it at is in Gwangyang. I have my doubts but I can't be 100% sure. I also need to get my visa changed from a single entry visa (once you leave you can't return without getting a visa again) to a multiple entry one. I have no idea why they don't let you do that when you get your original visa, but they don't. I can't understand everything.

This post has taken a long time. I spent about 90 minutes or so on it this morning and now about 3 hours or so. But I'm up to date and so are you, if you care. Life can be interesting and there is pleasure and contentment to be found in the strangest places.

* A note on the pictures *
I've started using flicr.com to hold my pictures. If you click on a picture it opens a new window that takes you to the picture. To the right of the picture there is a place where it says, "different sizes". If you click that you can see the picture in a different size or in it's original resolution. (If you care).

"You say you want a resolution". Oops, that's revolution.